Way to go spuds! Looks very professional!
Here we go again with another lurker deciding to build a cab. I'm totally not sure what I can contribute that is new to this hobby, since I am basically copying all the amazing cabs posted here. Anyway, I was starting to feel like a free-loader by consuming all the info here and not contributing. So here I go.
I started building about 2 months ago. I call my simple cab "iPin3k" (looks like the word pink). I like iPin because of the apple brand of products. The 3k part is a homage to MST3k and the fact that I was hoping to only spend $3k on it (that went out the window about a week ago).
This is a widebody build. I'm going to route the inside to fit the cab. Initial tests routing a piece of my 3/4" maple plywood indicates it is strong enough to hold at 1 1/2 ply remaining. I'll be bracing the crap out of everything because my goal is to allow the machine to be folded down and stoof up vertically for easy moving. We'll see how that goes.
Following along with the boilerplate, here are the machine specs:
- Intel core i5 3.1Ghz processor (over-clocked to 4.0)
- Corsair HYDRO 100 water cooling kit (for over-clocking my CPU)
- ASUS P8 Motherboard
- 4GB RAM
- NVidia GTX560 (for play field and backglass) / NVidia 8400 (for DMD)
- 60GB Solid State Drive (for FAST table switching and loading)
- SoundBlaster Creative Xtreme Audio card
Here are the screens:
- 46" Sharp LED (play field)
- 32" LG LED (backglass)
- 19" eMachine VGA (DMD)
All my photos are in my Google+ account, but I'll post some of the more interesting ones here:
The triumphant first test:
Building the backbox:
Mounting the screens:
A happy package arrives:
Checking the widebody lockbar:
More pics to come. I have now joined the ranks of the insane awesome.
Last edited by Spuds; 11-04-2011 at 02:32 PM. Reason: Changed to uploaded photos
Way to go spuds! Looks very professional!
awesome work so far! welcome on board!
Thanks alot guys. Another reason I started this thread is because the amount of questions I have are exceeding my available time for reading through every build for the answer (and believe me, I've been reading them for MONTHS).
My lack of woodworking skills has me stumped on a couple of issues. I have access to a SawStop table saw, a drill press, a hand router and a table router. But my questions are:
1. What would be the best way to route the insides of my cab at a 6 degree angle? I'm not sure if I need to use the hand router or rig the table router to do it. If it were a straight angle route, it would be a no brainer, but I'd like the screen to be tilted toward the player at a pinball angle. I think chriz's build does that.
2. What's an easy way to make the recessed holes for my buttons on the coin door? I have two round buttons (start and extra ball) and the rest are the rectangular buttons (from virtuapin).
I've never messed around with woodshop tools before a month ago and can't find any info online to help with these. Duh.
mameman, thanks for the tips. I swear, I can build fast PC's with ease, create web applications, I can even play the ukulele, but put a piece of wood in my hands and I'm completely lost.
I'll be hand routing the inside cab with a straight edge. Also, I got the order of the button hole drilling wrong and your comment fixed my brain. It makes total sense.
I'm a member of a local TechShop so all this equipment is available to me. But the guys who work there don't seem like they want to be bothered. Ah well. At least I got you guys. Hahahaha.
I'm not a master woodworker, but here are some tips that I have picked up over the years
1. As mameman stated, get a straightedge and clamp it to the cabinet to make a guide for the router. Try to go metal, mdf or plywood. If you go with real wood, you have to make sure it isn't warped. When clamping, go with several clamps - or just shortcut it and screw it down to ensure it doesn't move. Nothing is worse than routing and having the guide move on you.
2. I personally like the Forstner Bits over the spade. They will leave a cleaner hole/flat bottom. Here's a link to what I'm talking about. Home Deopt/Lowes/Ace also sells them individually for roughly $5. http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9146-Fors...0501631&sr=8-1
As for a square hole.....router + jig. Basically you will need to create an overlay in another piece of wood and then use a router with a bushing attached (see link below) Then pick your depth and route away. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/te...le_router_jigs , http://www.patwarner.com/mortiser.html
Another way would be use the forstner bit as mentioned above and then get a wood chisel and chisel out the 4 corners. You just need to be careful with the chisel as they are sharp and can easily split/mar your wood
3. And a couple of other helpful hints.......A) always wear safety glasses - as 1080p isn't going to look quite as good if you lose an eye B) prior to cutting plywood, take a utility knife and trace the edges of the cut. By doing this you are cutting the top layer and will minimize tear out on the plywood. (you don't need to do this with MDF) C) Draw in pencil - if you need to erase - use a cloth + rubbing alcohol. It will remove the pencil marks and won't harm the wood. D) jigs are your friend. There are a ton of different jigs out there. It may take some extra time to create - but it will make your cuts much easier. Just google Jigs, Saw Jigs, Router Jigs, Table Saw Jigs, etc. and you can get detailed plans on how to construct. E) Let the tool do the work, don't force/push the tool - that's how accidents happen.
Good luck and look forward to your progress.
Last edited by dante; 11-05-2011 at 06:44 AM.
Wow, dante and mameman, you guys rock. Totally awesome advice. I'm gonna use your tips and post some photos of my results. And hopefully, other woordworking newbies like myself can refer to this in the future. Thanks a TON!!!